https://www.accxproducts.com/wiki/index.php?title=Special:NewPages&feed=atom&hideredirs=1&limit=50&offset=&namespace=0&username=&tagfilter=ACCX Products Wiki - New pages [en]2024-03-28T15:02:13ZFrom ACCX Products WikiMediaWiki 1.39.3https://www.accxproducts.com/wiki/index.php?title=Toiture_Montr%C3%83_al_Estim%C3%83_Gratuit_Couvreur_Montr%C3%83_alToiture Montrà al Estimà Gratuit Couvreur Montrà al2023-05-30T18:27:56Z<p>WaylonMaxey552: Created page with "La côte de popularité de ce sort de toiture est en hausse ses dernières années et on va vous dire pourquoi. Pour tous vos besoins en matière de toiture, Couvreur Chernofs..."</p>
<hr />
<div>La côte de popularité de ce sort de toiture est en hausse ses dernières années et on va vous dire pourquoi. Pour tous vos besoins en matière de toiture, Couvreur Chernofsky, c’est le magasin multiservice incontournable dédié à votre extérieur. Toitures Steeve Arbour est fier d’offrir un service d’estimation gratuite pour votre toiture résidentielle, personnalisé selon vos besoins et votre scenario. Ces plis se chevauchent, et au moins trois sont noyés dans un asphalte liquide. Vous remarquez des bardeaux usés, de l'infiltration ou de la moisissure?<br><br>Tout d’abord, elle est très résistante face aux différentes températures extérieures. Un autre avantage de la toiture élastomère, c’est qu’elle s’installe aussi à froid grâce à une nouvelle technique.<br><br>On espère de belles retombées touristiques, car les gens provenant de l’extérieur peuvent par la suite bénéficier de nos eating places à travers la région », dit-elle. Vous n’avez pas trouvé le bon professionnel pour la réalisation de vos travaux ? On vous invite à suivre trois entrevues d’entrepreneurs qui ont le succès de leur entreprise respective à cœur.<br><br>Vous désirez discuter avec un entrepreneur concernant la ventilation et l’isolation de votre toit? Selon le type de toiture, René Perron Couvreurs peut vous offrir une garantie à vie sur les matériaux. René Perron Couvreurs est LE spécialiste en installation et en réfection de toitures à Montréal, sur la Rive-Sud, sur la Rive-Nord et à Laval. Avec Toiture Excellence, vous disposez d’un service d’urgence accessible 24 heures sur 24 et 7 jours sur 7.<br><br>De plus, il est tenu de la perte de l’ouvrage qui survient dans les cinq ans qui suivent la fin des travaux, que la perte résulte d’un vice de construction ou de réalisation de l’ouvrage . De plus, avec René Perron Couvreurs, vous pouvez profiter d’un service d’urgence accessible 24 heures/24, [https://Www.offwiki.org/wiki/User:CortneyAppel643 Www.offwiki.org] 7 jours/7, et ce, que votre toiture soit sous notre garantie ou non. Nous savons qu’il est important que votre toiture bénéficie d’un entretien régulier.<br><br>Un de ces jours, tous ces chaudrons éparpillés dans votre salon ne suffiront pas à contenir les fuites d’eau venant du plafond à chaque tombée de pluie. Sur une toiture, les solins font souvent toute la différence en matière d’étanchéité et de finition. Découvrez nos conseils pour votre toit et choisir le bon entrepreneur en toiture. L’installation d’une toiture métallique ne nécessite pas, dû à sa légèreté, une imposante structure pour la supporter. Un point à ne pas négliger lorsqu’il sera le temps de vendre votre propriété. La référence au Québec pour trouver tout ce dont vous avez besoin dans votre ville. M. Ménard rappelle que l’accumulation de neige n’a pas été aussi abondante que dans les Laurentides ou l’Est du Québec.<br><br>Ces certifications confèrent à l’entreprise un gage de qualité indéniable. Notre entreprise a beaucoup d’expérience dans la région de Laval avec ses nombreuses réalisations effectuées au fil du temps. Sollicitez-nous pour intervenir sur toute la Rive-Nord de Montréal. Enlever les moellons et autres débris sur les chantiers de construction. De plus, pensez à prévenir votre compagnie d’assurance que vous réalisez des travaux. Une assurance responsabilité professionnelle doit être valide pour toute la durée des travaux. Les références de votre entourage constituent un bon point de déhalf.<br><br>Nous proposons un service rapide et efficace à un prix très concurrentiel. Un électricien agit à plusieurs strates de la building à la rénovation en passant par la réparation. La toiture a une fonction pratique autant qu’elle a une fonction esthétique. La neige en période hivernale rend parfois les routes dangereuses. Alors pour les déblayer, il existe au Québec des entreprises spécialisées en la matière.<br><br>Tous nos travaux sont réalisés selon les règles les plus strictes dictées par l’Association des entrepreneurs en building du Québec . Vous hésitez ou avez des soupçons quant à l'intégrité de votre toiture? C’est un matériau durable, d’une lengthyévité incomparable qui varie entre seventy five et one hundred fifty ans. Nous desservons les régions des Laurentides, la rive-nord et Montréal. Depuis presque eighty ans, nous réparons et installons des toits conçus pour durer.<br><br>Par exemple, si vous cherchez un couvreur pour rénover une toiture de métal, priorisez des entrepreneurs qui ont de l'expérience avec ce matériau. Ajouter un couvreur de toiture à valleyfield sur la page dédiée à couvreur de toiture à valleyfield. pour la reconstruction de la toiture de l'entrepôt "E" du port de Valleyfield qui a une superficie de 2400 mètres carrés et les travaux connexes. Experts dans tout service relié à la toiture à Salaberry-de-Valleyfield, nous veillerons à ce que votre toit soit en glorious état à Salaberry-de-Valleyfield et que la couverture réponde à vos besoins. La toiture métallique assure une protection supérieure contre les rayons ultraviolets du soleil, les fortes pluies, la grêle, la glace et la neige. Elle résiste aussi aux vents pouvant atteindre jusqu’à 190km/h.</div>WaylonMaxey552https://www.accxproducts.com/wiki/index.php?title=Electric_LocksElectric Locks2016-07-07T22:05:02Z<p>Arclight: </p>
<hr />
<div>==Introduction==<br />
<br />
If you pick up a lock catalog, there are a huge number of choices for electric strikes, door magnets, and locks. This article is designed to help you choose appropriate hardware for your home or commercial door.<br />
<BR><br />
===Disclaimer===<br />
This page was not written by locksmiths. Modifying a fire-rated door may void its rating, and installing your hardware incorrectly may lock you out. No warranties as to the safety, fitness for use or reliability of this project are expressed or implied.<br />
Intro to Electrified Door Locks<br />
<BR><br />
The basic requirement for any electronic access control system is that you be able to close a relay, energize (or de-energize) some piece of physical hardware, and thus unlock the door. There are several types of doors that we will cover:<br />
<BR><br />
===Garage doors===<br />
These are trivial to electrify, provided that you have an electric garage door opener installed. Electrifying one of these simply involves tapping the "door open" button on the wall and running it to one of your relays. Be sure to check with a multimeter to see if the button is normally open (NO) or normally closed (NC) and connect the appropriate terminals.<br />
<br />
===Residential deadbolts=== <br />
This would be your typical Kwikset or Schlage lock set as found in most homes in North America. They usually mount in a 2.25" hole. Options for electrifying these include special door strikes that will push in and release the latch, surface-mounted hardware that does not use the installed lock, and modified "keyless entry" sets available from hardware stores. Modifying one of these consists of opening it up, finding the solenoid, and soldering wires to it. You can run the wires through the door or via a piece of flex cable to your panel. A 3-6V power source (to match the battery supply) will be needed.<br />
<br />
===Commercial doors with mortise locks===<br />
These can be identified as the type of door where most of the hardware is embedded in a large pocket in the door edge. The only bits you may see from the outside are a small round lock cylinder and some type of handle. Common brands are Sargent, Adams Rite, and the professional lines from Schlage. A commercial lock catalog will have many variations of electric hardware for these.<br />
<br />
===Glass store front doors===<br />
The majority of retail and office space in the U.S. comes equipped with an Aluminum-frame door containing an Adams-Rite mortise deadbolt or dead latch. There is specific hardware available from the manufacturer for this.<br />
<br />
===Other types of doors=== <br />
A common way to electrify anything else (interior doors, doors where you do not have access to the door frame to run a strike or wires) is a door magnet. These are large electromagnets that are typically bolted into the top of the door and are rated for 1000-2500lbs holding force. When energized, they keep the door shut. They are also "fail secure," meaning that the door will open when power is interrupted. This can be a good thing for a fire exit, but may not be a good thing for a secure area.<br />
<br />
===How to Measure your Door===<br />
<BR><br />
There are a few key parameters that you must know in order to order lock hardware. These measurements mostly apply to mortise locks, but may be asked for when ordering for other types.<br />
<br />
====Handing====<br />
This refers to what direction the door opens, with respect to the hinges and interior.<br />
<BR><br />
The way this is specified is really confusing. There are only two types of locks Adams Rite sells for these doors. "LH" or "Left Hand" is the same as "RRH" or "Reverse Right Hand" for purposes of ordering parts. We have the LH/RRH, as our door opens out, with thedoorknob on the left if you are standing outside looking at it. Here is a good description:<br />
<br />
[http://www.directdoorhardware.com/door_handing.htm Door handing guide]<br />
<br />
[https://www.doorwaysplus.com/door-handing-chart/ Convenient chart]<br />
<br />
Backset - This is the distance between the center of the keyhole and the front edge of the lock. Ours was 1 1/8", which is pretty common for glass store front doors. Your door edge might be tapered or rounded, so measure the front edge first.<br />
<br />
Door edge - If you open the door and look at the edge, it could be square, rounded or beveled. The trim plate that covers the locking mechanism might be available in more than one contour. If it is, get it. If not, the rounded one will fit anyway. Ours came with both a square and rounded one.<br />
<br />
====How to take apart a mortise lock====<br />
<br />
Taking apart most mortise locks pretty easy. The steps for an Adams Rite are as follows:<br />
<br />
Open the door and unscrew the trim plate that covers the locking mechanism on the door edge. There should be two Allen head or flat-head screws visible. Unscrew them about 10 turns, then grasp the lock cylinder (use the key partially inserted or a screwdriver) unscrew the lock cylinder from the door front. Remove the lock cylinder or exit device from the inside using the same procedure.<br />
<br />
There may also be a "locked/unlocked" status indicator on the inside. Remove this as well.<br />
<br />
Looking at the door edge, you should see two long bolts securing the deadbolt mechanism to the door frame. Remove these, and the whole mortise assembly will come out.<br />
<br />
===How to run the wiring===<br />
<br />
Most metal doors are hollow, and all Aluminum frame glass doors have hollow edges. You can use a fish tape to run a 2-pair wire from the lock, through the frame, and up to a corner by the hinge. There are a couple of options for getting power to the door:<br />
<br />
====Electrified hinges====<br />
These are sexy, but may require professional installation. This is a good option to ask for if you are ordering a new door.<br />
====Armored security cable====<br />
This is a 1/4" diameter metal cable that looks like the outside of a payphone handset cord. They typically come with hardware that lets you terminate them into the door frame and door, and they are hollow. We used a "Securitron" brand cable, which is pretty standard. You can mount the end of this to the door frame (if it's hollow and you have access to the attic to fish it) or to a junction box like you would use for a network cable drop.<br />
<br />
===Voltage and amperage considerations===<br />
<br />
Many of the newer strikes and door locks use a low-current solenoid that simply moves a pin out of the way, allowing the user to pull or push the door open. These usually use 200ma - 1A of current.<br />
<BR><br />
Some systems have very powerful solenoids, and will require a 5A or larger power supply and wiring.<br />
<BR><br />
*Most of the newer device mentioned above will work with 18-22ga wire, depending on the length of the run. You can often get away with CAT5 cable if you solder some of the pairs together. Always check the manufacturer's data sheet to be sure.<br />
*Watch out for continuous vs. intermittent duty cycles. Some hardware cannot be left in an unlocked state indefinitely, while other models can.<br />
===AC vs. DC.===<br />
The voltage rating for AC current is often different than DC, as some of these devices rely on inductance to present the proper load to the power supply. Running a 12VAC rated device at 12VDC may cause it to overheat.<br />
<br />
===Door supervision===<br />
Some hardware comes with an open/closed sensor inside the lock. This is a nice, clean way to run the door sensor lines, but be sure to check before ordering. Many manufacturers make several variants of their hardware, and you may get one that is wired up for it but does not have the feature installed.<br />
<br />
<BR><br />
It probably goes without saying, but you MUST protect the wiring to these devices if you want to have any security at all. Unlike the reader inputs, tampering with the door hardware can lead to immediate access being granted.</div>Arclighthttps://www.accxproducts.com/wiki/index.php?title=Installing_a_Raspberry_Pi_KitInstalling a Raspberry Pi Kit2015-12-18T19:02:58Z<p>Arclight: /* How to attach a Raspberry Pi Kit */</p>
<hr />
<div>==How to attach a Raspberry Pi Kit==<br />
<BR><br />
<br />
The Open Access v4 comes equipped with a 6-pin header that can directly interface to any [http://www.raspberrypi.org Rapsberry Pi] computer.<br />
<BR><br />
Additionally, mounting holes are provided for attaching the device directly to the Open Access board, making this a clean, compact solution.<br />
<br />
===Mounting the Pi===<br />
*A Rasberry Pi Model B mounts straight to the PCB using the mounting holes at opposite corners of the PCB. 0.750"nylcon spacers and 4-40 nylon screws are provided.<br />
*A Model B+ uses different hardware. The straight spacer goes on the lower left mounting hole, and the offset spacer goes on the upper right.<br />
<BR><br />
[[File:Rpi_mounting.jpg|300px]]<br />
<BR><br />
===Header location and pinout===<br />
The header is located on the lower left corner of the PCB, next to the Lithium 2032 battery. It is labelled <b>J5/RPi-IN</b>.<br />
<BR>Pinouts are as follows:<br />
<BR><B>1</B> 3.3V In<br />
<BR><B>2</B> +5V Out<br />
<BR><B>3</B> GND<br />
<BR><B>4</B> UART RX<br />
<BR><B>5</B> UART TX<br />
<BR><B>6</B> Spare<br />
<BR><br />
Schematic:<br />
<BR><br />
[[File:Raspberry_pi_connector.png|300px]]<br />
<br><br />
===Raspberry Pi Pinout and connections===<br />
The supplied ribbon cable will power the Raspberry Pi, and optionally allow a direct UART interface to between the Open Access and the Pi, saving a USB port. When used in this manner, 2-wya communication is possible, but not software updates. Updating the software on the Open Access requires attaching a USB cable and setting jumper J5 to "USB." Set J5 to RPi to use the on-board UART connection.<br />
<BR><br />
Note that the Mode B and Model B+ have different connectors. The older Model B uses a 26-pin 2-row connector, while the newer B+ uses a 40-pin connector. Fortunately, the power, ground and UART pins are in the same place for each. When installing the Raspberry Pi connector, make sure to connect <b>Pin 1</b> on the Open Access with <b>Pin 1</b> on the Pi. For reference, here is the RPi GPIO pinout:<br />
<BR><br />
[[File:GPIO.png|300px]]<br />
<BR></div>Arclighthttps://www.accxproducts.com/wiki/index.php?title=Sheeva_Plug_MonitoringSheeva Plug Monitoring2014-06-03T22:29:48Z<p>Arclight: Created page with "This page explains how to set up a Sheevaplug embedded PC for monitoring the Open Access Control. Updated 10/19/2012 (originally published at code.google.com) ==Plug Compute..."</p>
<hr />
<div>This page explains how to set up a Sheevaplug embedded PC for monitoring the Open Access Control.<br />
<br />
Updated 10/19/2012 (originally published at code.google.com)<br />
<br />
==Plug Computer Device Setup==<br />
<br />
Tutorial based on the Sheevaplug PC from Globalscale Technologies and ArmedSlack Linux v13.37.<br />
<br />
1. Download ArmedSlack 13.37.<br />
<br />
mkdir armedslack<br />
cd armedslack<br />
rsync -Pavv --delete ftp.armedslack.org::armedslack/armedslack-current .<br />
<br />
2. Install an 8GB MMC card. We used high-speed model from Sandisk, no problems.<br />
<br />
3. Attach to the plug PC with a mini USB to USB A cable. Linux terminal instructions are in the Slackware install doc here: ftp://ftp.armedslack.org/armedslack/armedslack13.3/INSTALL_KIRKWOOD.TXT<br />
<br />
Windows USB serial drivers are here, also more Linux help:<br />
<br />
http://www.plugcomputer.org/plugwiki/index.php/Serial_terminal_program<br />
<br />
4. Follow installation instructions at:<br />
<br />
ftp://ftp.armedslack.org/armedslack/armedslack/3.37/INSTALL_KIRKWOOD.TXT<br />
<br />
5. Set up a TFTP and NFS server. Instructions for Ubuntu are below.<br />
<br />
TFTP<br />
<br />
NFS<br />
<br />
a. If you get a CRC error on the boot or root image, re-download it from the mirror site and try again. This seems to be a common problem. Also, be sure you did not download and of the packages in ASCII mode.<br />
<br />
b. You need to run mmcinit twice on the boot loader to get it to recognize the card.<br />
<br />
c. Use an ext2 file system for the /boot volume. The / volume can be ext4 (recommended for journaling)<br />
<br />
d. The device names should be as follows:<br />
<pre><br />
/dev/mmcblk0p1 2048 206847 102400 83 Linux <br />
/dev/mmcblk0p2 206848 1845247 819200 82 Linux swap <br />
/dev/mmcblk0p3 1845248 15646719 6900736 83 Linux <br />
<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
Using /dev/sda1,sda2,sda3 does not work! These file system sizes are good for the 8GB card.<br />
<br />
e. Use these boot arguments:<br />
<pre><br />
Marvell>> setenv bootargs_console console=ttyS0,115200 <br />
# note changed device file: <br />
Marvell>> setenv bootargs_root 'root=/dev/mmcblk0p3 waitforroot=10 rootfs=ext4' <br />
Marvell>> setenv bootcmd 'setenv bootargs $(bootargs_console) $(bootargs_root); run bootcmd_slk ; reset' <br />
# for MMC: <br />
Marvell>> setenv bootcmd_slk 'mmcinit;ext2load mmc 0:1 0x01100000 /uinitrd-kirkwood;ext2load mmc 0:1 0x00800000 /uImage-kirkwood;bootm 0x00800000 0x01100000' <br />
# save <br />
Marvell>> saveenv <br />
Marvell>> reset <br />
</pre><br />
<br />
6. Install these packages: <br />
<pre>-All dev/make/gcc/binutils/glibc/kernel headers/etc</pre> <br />
<br />
This will enable building from source. This is much easier to do from the inititial installation script. pkgtool does not let you see the "everything" and "all dev" type options later. You'll get stuck having to manually add missing libraries/etc like I did, so watch out!<br />
<br />
*iptables (Needed for securing the system later)<br />
<br />
*All networking, openssl, basic required packages. -All Marvell utilities in the Slackware distribution<br />
<br />
*These specific packages we need for the Security Monitoring scripts:<br />
<br />
a. msmtp (Command-line mail sending client. Will work with SMTP/Gmail/Yahoo/etc)<br />
<br />
Download and build from: http://msmtp.sourceforge.net Must also install openSSL for TLS/SSL support! Also, install a root CA file from Firefox or similar in: /etc/ssl/certs/ca-certificates.crt <br />
<br />
b. minicom (Terminal program, we use this to communicate with the Arduino.)<br />
<br />
Use the built-in Slackware package, but be aware that it will just hang and seg-fault unless you first modify this file:<br />
<br />
/etc/minirc.dfl -> Open this file in vi and add a carriage return/line feed at the bottom and save. <br />
<br />
c. screen (We use screen to run minicom interactively)<br />
<br />
Note:<br />
<br />
A complete installation of everything will fit on the 8GB flash card. You can also pull the flash card out and copy the complete set of package files from your host PC to a directory once the basic install is completed. This will leave you with abotu 2GB free on the / file system.<br />
<br />
7. Configure networking and plug in your Arduino to the large USB 'A' port. The stock kernel seems to have no problem recognizing the built-in network devices and the FTDI chip on the Arduino is recognized as :<br />
<br />
/dev/ttyUSB0<br />
<br />
8. Now it's time to configure our monitoring stuff. Follow these instructions:<br />
Setup the monitoring system<br />
<br />
a. Create a normal user to run your monitoring scripts under. We'll call this user "access" for the tutorial.<br />
<br />
b. Create a directory called "scripts" in their home directory. Place the following files in this directory and modify the e-mail addresses, messages, etc as needed.<br />
<pre><br />
start_screen_logging.sh<br />
<br />
#!/bin/bash<br />
# Start logging functions in a screen<br />
/bin/su - access -c "screen -dmS MINICOM /home/access/scripts/start_logging.sh"<br />
<br />
log_notify.sh:<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
<pre><br />
#!/bin/bash<br />
tail -0f /home/access/scripts/access_log.txt | egrep --line-buffered -i "authenticated" | while read line<br />
do<br />
rm /home/access/scripts/message_tmp.txt<br />
cp /home/access/scripts/log_msg.txt /home/access/scripts/message_tmp.txt<br />
sleep 1<br />
tail -6 /home/access/scripts/access_log.txt >> /home/access/scripts/message_tmp.txt<br />
msmtp -t < /home/access/scripts/message_tmp.txt<br />
done<br />
<br />
log_alert.sh:<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
<pre><br />
#!/bin/bash<br />
cd /home/access/scripts<br />
tail -0f /home/access/scripts/access_log.txt | egrep --line-buffered -i "triggered" |<br />
while read line<br />
do<br />
msmtp -t < /home/access/scripts/alert_msg.txt<br />
done<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
log_msg.txt:<br />
<pre><br />
From:hackerspace_notifier@yourdomain.com<br />
To:somebody@domain.com, somebody_else@anotherdomain.com<br />
Subject:User at the Hacker Space<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
log_alert.txt:<br />
<pre><br />
From:hackerspace_notifier@yourdomain.com<br />
To:somebody@domain.com, somebody_else@anotherdomain.com<br />
Subject: Alert: Alarm triggered at shop<br />
<br />
Please log in to the webcame at http://www.somedomain.com/cameras to check status.<br />
<br />
-The Hacker Space<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
start_logging.sh:<br />
<pre><br />
#!/bin/bash<br />
/usr/bin/minicom -C /home/access/scripts/access_log.txt<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
c. Secure the scripts directory: chmod -r 700 /home/access/scripts<br />
<br />
d. Secure the USB serial port:<br />
<br />
chown root:dialout /dev/ttyUSB0<br />
<br />
chmod 770 /dev/ttyUSB0<br />
<br />
ls -al /dev/ttyU*<br />
<br />
crw-rw---- 1 root dialout 188, 0 2011-09-25 16:36 /dev/ttyUSB0<br />
<br />
Add the user "access" to the group dialout: gpasswd -a access dialout dialout:x:16:access<br />
<br />
e. run minicom -s and configure the comm parameters. The defaults for Open Access are:<br />
<br />
/etc/minirc.dfl:<br />
<pre><br />
pr port /dev/ttyUSB0<br />
pr lock /var/lock<br />
pu baudrate 57600<br />
pu minit<br />
pu mreset<br />
pu mdialpre<br />
pu mdialsuf<br />
pu mdialpre2<br />
pu mdialsuf2<br />
pu mdialpre3<br />
pu mdialsuf3<br />
pu mconnect<br />
pu mnocon1<br />
pu mnocon2<br />
pu mnocon3<br />
pu mnocon4<br />
pu mhangup<br />
pu mdialcan<br />
pu rtscts No<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
f. Configure iptables with some basic rules to protect the monitoring system. Tutorial here:<br />
<br />
Iptables rules<br />
<br />
g. Add the following file to /home/access. Modify as needed for your outgoing e-mail account.<br />
<br />
.msmtprc<br />
<pre><br />
#Gmail account<br />
account gmail<br />
host smtp.gmail.com<br />
from myuser@gmail.com<br />
auth on<br />
tls on<br />
tls<br />
tls_trust_file /etc/ssl/certs/ca-certificates.crt<br />
user xxxx@gmail.com<br />
password xxxx<br />
port 587<br />
#tls_certcheck off<br />
<br />
#ATT Account<br />
account att<br />
host smtp.att.yahoo.com<br />
tls on<br />
auth on<br />
tls_trust_file /etc/ssl/certs/ca-certificates.crt<br />
tls_starttls off<br />
from xxx@att.net<br />
user xxx@att.net<br />
password xxxx<br />
<br />
account default : att<br />
</pre><br />
h. Add the following lines to /etc/rc.d/rc.local:<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
/etc/sysconfig/iptables<br />
/bin/su - access -c "/home/access/scripts/log_notify.sh &"<br />
/bin/su - access -c "/home/access/scripts/log_alert.sh &"<br />
/home/access/scripts/start_screen_logging.sh<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
i. With the Arduino connected, reboot everything and verify that it all comes up automatically. You should be able to log in via ssh, type "screen -rd" and be connected to an interactive session on the Arduino. Please secure the ssh system with certificates and/or good passwords.</div>Arclighthttps://www.accxproducts.com/wiki/index.php?title=Open_Access_Quick_Start_GuideOpen Access Quick Start Guide2014-06-03T22:19:17Z<p>Zyphlar: clarifying sketchbook path</p>
<hr />
<div>==Steps to Getting Up and Running==<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The Open Access comes fully assembled out of the box. Here are the steps involved in getting it up and running in your environment.<br />
<BR><br />
<br />
===Powering on and connecting===<br />
<br />
1. Unpack your Open Access Control and familiarize yourself with it. For initial programming, make sure the serial port jumpers are set to "USB" and that the "Reset Enable" jumper is closed. Details on the jumpers and hardware settings can be found here:<br />
[[Open Access v4 Jumpers]]<br />
<br />
2. Connect your Open Access to a 12V power supply. Any 11.5-14V power supply capable of delivering at least 500ma will work. You can cut and strip the ends of a standard consumer wall-wart supply and attach them to the 12V-IN terminals. The Open Access is protected against reverse polarity, and will not be harmed if the 12V input is reversed.<br />
<br />
===Installing Open Access Software and Customizing===<br />
1. Connect the Open Access to a computer using a standard USB-mini cable. <br />
<br />
2. Download the latest Arduino environment for your OS (WIndows, OSX or Linux) from:<br />
http://arduino.cc<br />
<br />
3. Download the Open Access software. You can either get it here:<br />
[[Open Access 4.0]]<br />
<br />
4. Unzip the package and install the libraries in your sketchbook under a directory called "libraries" and place the .ino and the .h file in a sketchbook folder. (Your Arduino IDE's sketchbook folder is set under the File>Preferences menu, usually something like <code>/home/your_username/Arduino</code>)<br />
<br />
5. Open the project in the Arduino IDE, and you should now get both the .INO and the .h open in separate tabs. <br />
<br />
You can customize values like the enable password, timeouts, etc from the user.h file.<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
#define DEBUG 3 // Set to 4 for display of raw tag numbers in BIN, 3 for decimal, 2 for HEX, 1 for only denied, 0 for never. <br />
#define VERSION 1.35<br />
#define UBAUDRATE 9600 // Set the baud rate for the USB serial port<br />
<br />
#define gonzo 0xFFFFFFF // Name and badge number in HEX. We are not using checksums or site ID, just the whole<br />
#define snake 0xFFFFFFF // output string from the reader.<br />
#define satan 0xFFFFFFF<br />
const long superUserList[] = { gonzo, snake, satan}; // Super user table (cannot be changed by software)<br />
<br />
#define PRIVPASSWORD 0x1234 // Console "priveleged mode" password<br />
<br />
#define DOORDELAY 5000 // How long to open door lock once access is granted. (2500 = 2.5s)<br />
#define SENSORTHRESHOLD 100 // Analog sensor change that will trigger an alarm (0..255)<br />
#define KEYPADTIMEOUT 5000 // Timeout for pin pad entry. Users on keypads can enter commands after reader swipe.<br />
#define CARDFORMAT 1 // Card format<br />
// 0=first 25 raw bytes from card<br />
// 1=First and second parity bits stripped (default for most systems)<br />
<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
The "Superusers" are optional card values that can be hard-coded in, should you lock yourself out accidentally. They are set by default to be disabled (FFFFFFFF).<br />
<br />
6. Compile and upload the sketch to the Open Access. Under Tools->Boards, select the "Duemillanove, 16Mhz with Atmega328P."<br />
<br />
Note: If it fails to compile as-is, you may have an issue with the Arduino compiler. Some versions/platforms will complain about one of the libraries having an include of "WProgram.h" If that is the case, you can remove that line from the library.<br />
<br />
===Adding users and interactive configuration===<br />
1. Once the program is uploaded, test it out by attaching an RFID reader to the "Reader1" input and swiping a card. You should see a relay click and its LED flash to indicate an "access denied." <br />
<br />
2. Using the Arduino terminal or your favoraite comm program, connect over USB at 9600. Once connected, hit '?' for the menu. You should see:<br />
<pre><br />
0:0:0 1/1/0 SUN Access Control System rebooted.<br />
Valid commands are:<br />
(d)ate, (s)show user, (m)odify user <num> <usermask> <tagnumber><br />
(a)ll user dump,(r)emove_user <num>,(o)open door <num><br />
(u)nlock all doors,(l)lock all doors<br />
(1)disarm_alarm, (2)arm_alarm,(3)train_alarm (9)show_status<br />
(t)ime set <sec 0..59> <min 0..59> <hour 0..23> <day of week 1..7><br />
<day 0..31> <mon 0..12> <year 0.99><br />
(e)nable <password> - enable or disable priveleged mode<br />
(h)ardware Test <iterations> - Run the hardware test<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
<br />
3. Set the date/time and program a user using the menu. If you hit <d>ate again, it should show an incrementing correct time. <br />
<br />
To obtain a tag number to program, read the serial number from the side of the card (most EM4100 tags have a serial that can directly entered) or swipe it and wait for a denied message at the terminal and then use that number. The format for entering users records is:<br />
<pre>m 1 254 123457890</pre><br />
<br />
Where: 1 = user number (1..200), 254 = security level (0..254) and 123456890 is the tag ID in decimal format.<br />
<br />
Note: You can change the tag format or customize it in the code.<br />
<br />
===Connecting Open Access to a Server===<br />
Open Access can be connected to any Linux, Windows or OSX server for remote control, logging and other needs. <br />
<br />
====Raspberry Pi Instructions====<br />
To set up the Raspberry Pi and use it's on-board serial UART via the expansion header, you'll need to modify a couple of settings in Raspian. A step-by-step is here:<br />
[[Raspberry Pi Setup]]<br />
<br />
====Basic Linux Monitoring====<br />
[[Sheeva Plug Monitoring]]</div>Arclighthttps://www.accxproducts.com/wiki/index.php?title=Open_Access_v4_Specs_and_RatingsOpen Access v4 Specs and Ratings2014-05-11T22:34:47Z<p>Arclight: /* Electrical Specs and Ratings */</p>
<hr />
<div>===Electrical Specs and Ratings===<br />
<br />
<B>Power</B><br />
* 11-14VDC input, 1.5A self-resetting fuse<br />
* 5V, 2A (absolute max) PSU on-board. <br />
* 2x200ma 12V accessory power ports (fused)<br />
* 2x200ma 12V RFID reader supplies (fused)<br />
* 5V power available on RPi and LCD expantion ports (unfused)<br />
<B>Connectors</B><br />
*Power: 5.00mm Phoenix screw terminal<br />
*Alarm, RS485, Relays: 3.50mm Phoenix screw terminal<br />
*Jumpers: .100<br />
*ICSP: 2x3 .100<br />
*RPi: 2x3 .100<br />
*LCD: 2x8 .100<br />
<B>Relays</B><br />
*4x1FormC Relays, rated to 5A at 30VDC or AC.<br />
**Pinout: NO-Common-NC<br />
<B>Alarm Inputs</B><br />
*Support analog input via Analog 0..3 pins<br />
*Uses a 2.2K current-limited resistor, TVS diode for protection<br />
*Has a 10K pull-up resistor to +5V<br />
*Pinout: 1. Input 2 Ground<br />
*Usable sampling range: 0-4.1VDC. The protection and pull-up circuit form a 10K/2.2K divider.<br />
*Additional "Tamper" zone, which is a digital input, same configuration<br />
<B>RFID Inputs</B><br />
*Standard Wiegand26 inputs (GND, +12V, D0, D1, LED, Buzzer)<br />
*Same 2.2K/10K protection as Alarm inputs<br />
*D0,D1 pins are interrupt-driven (uses PCATTACH library for additional interrupt support)<br />
*2.2K current-limited on LED/buzzer outputs<br />
<br />
<B>CPU</B><br />
*Atmega328P at 16.00Mhz <br />
*Comes pre-loaded with Arduino Bootloader<br />
*Compatible with "Duemillenova" Arduino<br />
*Uses FTDI FT232L USB chip and mini-USB<br />
*Includes ICSP header (6-pin) and reset switch<br />
<B>RS485</B><br />
*On-board hardwre RS485 chip (TI SN65HVD)<br />
*Connected to D6 (EN), D7 (RX), D8 (TX). <br />
*Use with SoftwareSerial library for interactive readers, chaining boards together in a bus<br />
<B>Real-time clock</B><br />
*DS1307 RTC with CR-2032 backup battery<br />
*5 year+ battery life<br />
<br />
<B>Further Details</B><br />
*[[File:Open_Access_v4_schematic.pdf]]<br />
*[[EM4100 Reader pinouts]]</div>Arclighthttps://www.accxproducts.com/wiki/index.php?title=Open_Access_v4_JumpersOpen Access v4 Jumpers2014-05-11T21:58:33Z<p>Arclight: /* Hardware Settings and Defaults */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Hardware Settings and Defaults==<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:AC400_1024x1024_jumpers.png]]<br />
<br />
The Open Access comes ready to run out of the box, advanced users may want to customize their hardware. The following is a list of hardware features that can be selected via jumpers.<br />
<BR><br />
<br />
===Jumper Table===<br />
*<b>1 USB Power</b> - Enable this jumper to allow the board to be powerd via USB or power an attached accessory. <br />
**Default: ON<br />
**Recommend turning this off if you need to ensure that your external device does not remain powered by the OA's 5V USB connection.<br />
*<b>2 USB/RPi Selector</b> - Determines whether the Open Access communicates via the mini-USB port or the Raspberry Pi connector<br />
**Default: Both jumpers UP (USB)<br />
**Set both jumpers in the pair to "USB" (top) setting to connect the serial output to the FTDI-based USB port. <br />
**Important: Move both jumpers for proper operation. One jumper is for TX and one is for RX to the Atmgea328P.<br />
*<b>3 RS-485 Termination</b> - Enables a termination resistor for end-of-bus on an RS-485 circuit<br />
** Default: ON<br />
** Recommendation: Leave this to ON if connecting 0-1 devices, or if it is the last unit in the circuit.<br />
*<b>4 Reset Enable</b> - Can be used to disable the resetting and re-flashing of the Open Access CPU<br />
** Default: ON (Reset enabled)<br />
** Recommendation: Set this to OFF for increased security; setting it to OFF will prevent a reset and bootloader access. Set to OFF if a USB-attached peripheral may hard-reset and interfere with operation of the unit. Set to ON to allow programming/reset from USB.</div>Arclighthttps://www.accxproducts.com/wiki/index.php?title=Open_Access_4.0Open Access 4.02013-10-23T17:42:31Z<p>Arclight: /* Support and Documentation */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Open Access Control v 4.0==<br />
<br />
[[File:Openaccess-rpi.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
This page contains documentation, installation tips and downloads for the all-new Open Access version 4. Open Access is a first-of-its-kind offering that brings enterprise security to the hobbyist, hacker and developer. The system is open-source and not encumbered by licensing, NDAs and other problems found with commercial hardware.<br />
<br />
====System Features====<br />
The Open Access Standand version 4 has an Arduino-compatible Atmega 328P on-board and support for powering and interfacing with the Raspberry Pi via it’s 26-pin header. Features include:<br />
<br />
*Atmega328P with support for 200 local users in eeprom. Arduino compatible w/USB and ICSP programming.<br />
*(2) Wiegand RFID reader ports with fused power, LED, and buzzer support<br />
*(4) Supervised alarm zones<br />
*(1) Unsupervised tamper zone<br />
*(4) 5A relay outputs<br />
*(2) 12V auxiliary power ports<br />
*Selectable USB output or direct-attach 3.3V UART to the Raspberry Pi<br />
*Real-time clock with battery backup (DS1307)<br />
*Serial i2c EEPROM (Atmel AT24)<br />
*Expansion header for CD or more inputs/outputs<br />
<br />
===Support and Documentation===<br />
<B>Quick Start Guide</B><br />
* [[Open Access Quick Start Guide]]<br />
*[[Installing a Raspberry Pi Kit]]<br />
<B>Jumpers and settings</B><br />
* [[Open Access v4 Jumpers]]<br />
<B>Electrical Specifications</B><br />
* [[Open Access v4 Specs and Ratings]]<br />
<B>Schematics and Design Info</B><br />
[[File:Open_Access_v4_schematic.pdf]]<br />
*Full set of schematics for the Open Access v4, in PDF format.<br />
<B>RFID Reader Documentation</B><br />
* [[EM4100 Reader pinouts]]<br />
<br />
<BR><br />
<br />
===Software Downloads===<br />
<B>Firmware</B><br />
[[File:Open_Access_Control_v4_std_140.zip ]]<br />
*Latest firmware (v1.40) for the Open Access v4 Hardware<br />
*Last build tested with Arduino 1.64<br />
<br />
===Mounting Template===<br />
*Mounting template for installing the Open Access v4<br />
*Prints as actual size (approximately 4x6")<br />
[[File:Drill_template_v4.png|thumb|left]]</div>Arclighthttps://www.accxproducts.com/wiki/index.php?title=Open_Access_v4_Build_InstructionsOpen Access v4 Build Instructions2013-07-19T15:52:34Z<p>QUARKy: /* Detailed Instructions */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Open Access Mega v3 Build instructions==<br />
<br />
===Overview===<br />
The Open Access Standard kit requires surface-mount soldering of approximately 99 components. Of which, resistors and capacitors are primarily of 0805 casing type. It is recommended that first-time builders practice on a smaller board to get the technique and reflow times sorted prior to building. There are several excellent tutorials on-line, including:<br />
<br><br />
*[http://www.instructables.com/id/Home-reflow-SMD-soldering/ Instructables on Home Reflow Soldering Technique ]<br />
*[http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/59 Sparkfun Skillet Soldering Techniques]<br />
<br><br />
====Required Tools & Materials====<br />
*Quality temperature-controlled soldering iron<br />
**Optional: hot-air station for reworking mis-placed components<br />
*Solder (rosin or water-clean) for through-hole components<br />
*Desoldering braid for fixing mistakes<br />
*Hot plate or toaster oven for reflowing<br />
*Small squeegee or bondo scraper for applying paste to the stencil<br />
*Sheet of glass or plastic to tape the PCB/stencil to. A Mylar solder-paste stencil is included in the kit.<br />
*Sharp tweezers for placing parts<br />
*Flush cutters for trimming leads on through-hole parts<br />
*Alcohol for cleaning PCB and removing excess paste<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
Solder paste is available at reasonable cost from these suppliers:<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
[http://www.zeph.com/zephpaste.htm Zephyrtronics - Distributors of SMT rework supplies]<br />
<br><br />
[http://smtsupplies.com/ Advanced Precision - Excellent prices and selection of solder materials]<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
<br />
===Detailed Instructions===<br />
'''1.''' Begin by laying all of the components out on a clean surface and identifying/organizing them. When ready, clean the PCB with alcohol and stencil on the solder paste. <br />
<br><br />
Clean up excess with more alcohol. <br />
<br><br />
'''2.''' Place components with a fine pair of tweezers, working from smallest to largest. <br />
If tweezers begin sticking to part, clean as needed with a soft cloth or paper. <br />
<br><br />
Some excess solder paste is OK, as it will reflow down and likely not bridge. Bridges can also be fixed later with a fine soldering tip and desoldering braid. <br />
<br />
Place the components as follows:<br />
<br />
'''Resistors (no polarity)'''<br />
*2.2K, 5% (Markings: 222) <br />
**All reader and analog input signals (R16-19,R23,R26-28,R35,R37,R38,R39,R43,R45,R46,R53-54,R60,R62). <br />
**All LED resistors (R7-15). <br />
**Reader output signals (R54, R55, R32, R63,R64,R68)<br />
<br />
*10K, 5% (Markings: 103)<br />
**All analog signal pull-up lines (R20-22,R24,R29-31,R25,R40-42,R36,R48,R49-50). <br />
**Voltage divider for 12V monitor line ( R47,R71-73). <br />
**All reader pull-ups (R56,R57-58,R52,R59,R65-67,R61,R69)<br />
<br />
*150 Ohm, 5% (Markings: R150) <br />
**RS-485 termination resistor (R73)<br />
**Reset jumper resistor (R76)<br />
<br />
*10 Ohm (Markings: 100) <br />
**Reader cable shield terminal resistor to GND (R74,R75)<br />
*4.7K (Markings:472) I2C Pull-ups (R33-34)<br />
<br />
*10K, 1% (Markings: 1002) <br />
**Power supply divider resistors (R1-R4) <br />
<br />
*0.15 Ohm (Markings: .15) <br />
**Power supply current (R5) (Critical, don't mess this up!)<br />
<br />
'''Small capacitors (ceramic,no polarity; 0.1uF, 50V)'''<br />
*(C3, C5-C17)<br />
<br />
'''Diodes (observe polarity stripe on end)'''<br />
**2A, 35V: (D1)<br />
**Schottky,1A: (D2)<br />
**TVS, PMDS case: (D3, D4, D5)<br />
<br />
*LEDs: Light Emitting diodes <br />
**Blue, 1206: (LED3-LED8)<br />
**Green, 1206:(LED1, LED2)<br />
<br />
*PTC Fuses (No polarity, 200mA, 15V; Markings:C) <br />
**Reader power lines (D2-D11)<br />
<br />
*PTC Fuses (No polarity, 1.5A)<br />
**(F1)<br />
<br />
'''Integrated circuits'''<br />
*SN65HVD05 RS-485 driver <br />
**(IC1, stripe goes down when looking at board from top)<br />
<br />
*MCP34063 buck power regulator(IC1)<br />
<br />
*ULN2803 8-channel driver array(IC3)<br />
<br />
*AT24C 128KB EEPROM(IC7)<br />
<br />
*DS1307 real-time clock IC<br />
**(U$7, pin 1 mark goes towards bottom left of PCB)<br />
<br />
'''Electrolytic caps (observe polarity stripe)'''<br />
*100uF, 35V(C1)<br />
*33uF (C2)<br />
*22uF, 10V (C3)<br />
<br />
'''Inductors'''<br />
*15uH (L1, no polarity)<br />
*1uH (L2, no polarity)<br />
<br />
'''Crystal '''<br />
*HC48U-v crystal(XL1)<br />
*32.768Khz RTC crystal (XL2, dot towards exterior, chisel-point towards interior; observe polarity/pin 1 mark)<br />
<br />
'''Switch'''<br />
*5mm tactile switch, NOT reflow solderable. <br />
**Place and solder by hand AFTER reflow. (Next to JP4)<br />
<br><br />
'''3.''' Finish placing all parts and straighten as needed. Reflow solder using hotplate or oven, using an appropriate process.<br />
<br><br />
'''4.''' When PCB is cool, inspect the SMT parts under magnification and hand-solder dry joints or remove excess solder from shorted pins as needed. <br />
<br><br />
'''5.''' Begin soldering the 3.5mm pin headers. For the relay and analog/alarm inputs (16 and 24 pin headers,) you will need to trim the right edge of each pin header with a sharp pair of cutters to make them fit end-to-end. Use the plugs to hold and align them while soldering. Tack down 1 pin on each and make sure they are fully seated before soldering the rest.<br />
<br><br />
'''6.''' Solder in the MOV (R6). It has no polarity. Put the fuse into the fuse holder clips (F1) and solder it from top and bottom. <br />
<br><br />
'''7.''' Solder in the battery holder, observing the polarity marks as well as the part outline on the PCB silkscreen. <br />
<br><br />
'''8.''' Install all 4 relays. Use tape to hold them in position, and tack down 1 pin each to make sure they're seated all the way before soldering.<br />
<br><br />
'''9.''' Install the 5mm power terminal (POWER-IN). <br />
<br><br />
'''10.''' Install the Arduino pin headers. Use an Ethernet or other shield to aid alignment from the top if desired.<br />
<br><br />
'''11.''' Inspect all joints and correct any problems. Clean the PCB with alcohol or flux remover and a toothbrush. Get rid of flux and any solder balls. All components are sealed and will not be damaged by aggressive cleaning. Do not use an ultrasonic cleaner, as this may damage components. Dry the PCB and prepare for testing. Install the Lithium battery, (+) side up.<br />
<br />
====Testing and burn-in Instructions====<br />
When you've completed assembly or have installed a new board, use the following procedure for initial testing.<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
[[Open Access Standard Testing and burn-in]]</div>QUARKyhttps://www.accxproducts.com/wiki/index.php?title=Open_Access_Mega_Testing_and_burn-inOpen Access Mega Testing and burn-in2013-01-25T18:20:07Z<p>Arclight: Created page with "==Open Access Mega - Testing and burn-in== <br> '''1.''' Begin by applying 5-8V to the power input connector (X35). The green power LED should light. Measure the voltage at the..."</p>
<hr />
<div>==Open Access Mega - Testing and burn-in==<br />
<br><br />
'''1.''' Begin by applying 5-8V to the power input connector (X35). The green power LED should light. Measure the voltage at the +5V terminal on the Arduino header. It should read 4.9-5.1VDC. Increase the voltage to 12-14V. The power reading should be the same. If your power supply measures current, the idle board should be drawing less than 100ma. <br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
If there is no voltage present, disconnect power immediately and feel for any hot components, especially on the power supply circuit. This is often caused by a short or resistor/chip installed backwards.<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
'''2.''' Install an Arduino Mega (standard or 2560) and power up the board again. Compile and upload the latest code, un-commenting the "hardwaretest();" line to make it start in self-test mode. Connect to serial at 57,600, 8,N,1.<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
After it boots, verify that all relays click on and off, and try shorting each of the 2 reader input (D0/D1) and the 16 analog inputs to ground, one by one. They should all go from >200 to <50 if shorted. A diode install backwards or a short is usually the cause of trouble here.<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
'''3.''' Comment out the self-test and boot the Arduino into regular mode. Connect via serial and hit (?) to see a menu. Make sure your terminal is set to send a <CR> after each line.<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
Hit "e 1234" to enable privileged mode with the default password of 1234. Set the time and verify that the clock holds the time between reboots and power-off. <br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
Connect up a reader to the reader inputs and try swiping a card. After 1-2 swipes (it may pick up noise from inserting the connector), it should give a consistent value. Be careful to hook up the '0' and '1' lines correctly. If they are reversed, all card readers will be inverted. <br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
Add a card at position 1 or higher, using this command "a 1 254 1f23b6" or whatever card number you swiped. The security level "254" is the default that will open all doors and does not have a time restriction.<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
When you swipe that card again, you should see one relay click on for 5 seconds and then off again. Repeating the scan at the second reader should do the same for the second door relay. <br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
Two other relays are configured by default for a door chime and siren. The remaining 4 relays can be configured for custom applications, such as signage, lighting, etc.<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
'''4.''' Hit command '3' to train the alarm sensors. This will measure the analog voltage at each of the 16 sensor inputs and store the value to eeprom. When you install alarm sensors, you will want to repeat this procedure again to get the "not activated" or "doors closed" values stored.<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
'''5.''' Optionally, burn in the system by leaving it plugged in for 24 hours prior to use in production. You can configure the hardware test for 100-200 iterations for a stress-test.<br />
<br><br />
<br></div>Arclighthttps://www.accxproducts.com/wiki/index.php?title=EM4100_Reader_pinoutsEM4100 Reader pinouts2013-01-25T18:18:06Z<p>Arclight: </p>
<hr />
<div> __NOTOC__<br />
==Reader Pinouts and specs==<br />
<br />
<br />
Most of the Wiegand protocol readers available use similar wiring and pinouts. Here are some general and specific guidelines.<br />
<br />
[[File:RD-150 800.jpg|''Open Access v4 hardware''|right|400px]]<br />
====EM4100 Readers====<br />
The EM4100 readers from ACCX Products have this pinout:<br />
<br />
*<span style="color:#ff0000">Red</span> = +12V Power (25-100ma)<br />
*<span style="color:#000000">Black</span> = Ground/negative power terminal<br />
*<span style="color:#008000">Green</span> = Data 0<br />
*<span style="color:#ffffff;background:#000000">White</span> = Data 1<br />
*<span style="color:#0000ff">Blue</span> = LED (ground this wire to change LED state)<br />
*<span style="color:#ffff00">Yellow</span> = Beeper (ground to to turn on)<br />
*<span style="color:#808080">Grey</span> = Wiegand26 or Wiegand34 support. Grounding this selects 26-bit output.<br />
<br />
The Open Access Mega and v4 boards have all of these labelled on the header. There are (2) outputs for led and buzzer lines, which can all be addressed via the software.<br />
<br />
===Wiring Tips===<br />
*Use 20-26ga alarm wire for easiest wiring. CAT5 also works, but the colors are different.<br />
*Telco splices (aka "Jelly Snappers") or quick-release connectors make connections easy.<br />
*The reader dimentions for our readers are 86x86mm and they are waterproof.<br />
<br />
====Card Format====<br />
The ACCX-supplied readers and cards use a Wiegand-26 format. <br />
<br />
Card format: 26-bit (8-bit facility code, 16-bit user ID, two parity bits)<br />
<br />
P DDDDDDDD DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD P<br />
<br />
====Electrical signalling:====<br />
A ‘0’ and a ‘1’ line are held at +5V relative to ground. When data is transmitted, the lines are sent low for a period of between 35-500uS (measured) with a pause between bits of approximately 10X the pulse width. Reader lines can be up to 500’ from the panel.<br />
<br />
====Initial Testing====<br />
For tips on initial testing, see the testing page:<br />
*[[Open Access Mega Testing and burn-in]]</div>Arclighthttps://www.accxproducts.com/wiki/index.php?title=Open_Access_Mega_Kit_-_Build_InstructionsOpen Access Mega Kit - Build Instructions2013-01-22T22:45:59Z<p>Arclight: /* Testing and burn-in */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Open Access Mega v3 Build instructions==<br />
<br />
===Overview===<br />
The Open Access Mega kit requires surface-mount soldering of approximately 75 0805-pitch components. It is recommended that first-time builders practice on a smaller board to get the technique and reflow times sorted prior to building. There are several excellent tutorials on-line, including:<br />
<br><br />
*[http://www.instructables.com/id/Home-reflow-SMD-soldering/ Instructables on Home Reflow Soldering Technique ]<br />
*[http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/59 Sparkfun Skillet Soldering Techniques]<br />
<br><br />
====Required Tools & Materials====<br />
*Quality temperature-controlled soldering iron<br />
**Optional: hot-air station for reworking mis-placed components<br />
*Solder (rosin or water-clean) for through-hole components<br />
*Desoldering braid for fixing mistakes<br />
*Hot plate or toaster oven for reflowing<br />
*Small squeegee or bondo scraper for applying paste to the stencil<br />
*Sheet of glass or plastic to tape the PCB/stencil to. A Mylar solder-paste stencil is included in the kit.<br />
*Sharp tweezers for placing parts<br />
*Flush cutters for trimming leads on through-hole parts<br />
*Alcohol for cleaning PCB and removing excess paste<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
Solder paste is available at reasonable cost from these suppliers:<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
[http://www.zeph.com/zephpaste.htm Zephyrtronics - Distributors of SMT rework supplies]<br />
<br><br />
[http://smtsupplies.com/ Advanced Precision - Excellent prices and selection of solder materials]<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
<br />
===Detailed Instructions===<br />
'''1.''' Begin by laying all of the components out on a clean surface and identifying/organizing them. When ready, clean the PCB with alcohol and stencil on the solder paste. <br />
<br><br />
Clean up excess with more alcohol. <br />
<br><br />
'''2.''' Place components with a fine pair of tweezers, working from smallest to largest. <br />
If tweezers begin sticking to part, clean as needed with a soft cloth or paper. <br />
<br><br />
Some excess solder paste is OK, as it will reflow down and likely not bridge. Bridges can also be fixed later with a fine soldering tip and desoldering braid. <br />
<br />
Place the components as follows:<br />
<br />
'''Resistors (no polarity)'''<br />
*2.2K, 5% (Markings: 222) <br />
**All reader and analog input signals (R16-19,R23,R26-28,R35,R37,R38,R39,R43,R45,R46,R53-54,R60,R62). <br />
**All LED resistors (R7-15). <br />
**Reader output signals (R54, R55, R32, R63,R64,R68)<br />
<br />
*10K, 5% (Markings: 103)<br />
**All analog signal pull-up lines (R20-22,R24,R29-31,R25,R40-42,R36,R48,R49-50). <br />
**Voltage divider for 12V monitor line ( R47,R71-73). <br />
**All reader pull-ups (R56,R57-58,R52,R59,R65-67,R61,R69)<br />
<br />
*150 Ohm, 5% (Markings: R150) <br />
**RS-485 termination resistor (R73)<br />
**Reset jumper resistor (R76)<br />
<br />
*10 Ohm (Markings: 100) <br />
**Reader cable shield terminal resistor to GND (R74,R75)<br />
*4.7K (Markings:472) I2C Pull-ups (R33-34)<br />
<br />
*10K, 1% (Markings: 1002) <br />
**Power supply divider resistors (R1-R4) <br />
<br />
*0.15 Ohm (Markings: .15) <br />
**Power supply current (R5) (Critical, don't mess this up!)<br />
<br />
'''Small capacitors (no polarity)'''<br />
*0.1uF ceramic (no marking, check package or strip for value)<br />
**Decoupling caps (C4,C5,C8)<br />
*200pf ceramic (no markings)<br />
**Power supply cap (C3)<br />
<br />
'''Diodes (observe polarity stripe on end)'''<br />
*1N5819 Schottky Diode (Markings: 75 or various)<br />
**Power supply diode (D1, stripe away from GND, i.e. towards the power supply IC)<br />
*5.6V Zener Diodes (Markings:CV or various)<br />
**All input lines (D4-D18, D20-29, stripe is towards outside edge of PCB) (D19, stripe is towards the right side of PCB) <br />
**In all cases, the stripe is oriented AWAY from ground.<br />
<br />
*Reverse protection diode (Large, markings vary)<br />
**(D2, stripe towards top of PCB)<br />
*Bi-directional TVS diode (Large, only diode with no polarity stripe)<br />
**(D3, polarity doesn't matter)<br />
<br />
*Light Emitting diodes (LEDs)<br />
**In all cases, the arrow or pointy part of the 'T' should point towards (-)<br />
<br />
*PTC Fuses (No polarity, 200ma, 15V (Markings:C) <br />
**Reader power lines (F2,F3)<br />
<br />
'''Integrated circuits'''<br />
*SN65HVD05 RS-485 driver <br />
**(IC1, stripe goes down when looking at board from top)<br />
<br />
*MCP34063 buck power regulator <br />
**(U$1, stripe goes to the right of PCB)<br />
<br />
*ULN2803 8-channel driver array <br />
**(ULN1, pin 1 mark goes towards top left of PCB)<br />
<br />
*AT24C 128KB EEPROM<br />
**(U3, pin 1 mark goes towards bottom right of PCB)<br />
<br />
*DS1307 real-time clock IC<br />
**(U$7, pin 1 mark goes towards bottom left of PCB)<br />
<br />
'''Electrolytic caps (observe polarity stripe)'''<br />
*100uF, 25V<br />
**(C1, polarity stripe towards right side of PCB)<br />
<br />
*33uF, 16V<br />
**(C2, polarity stripe towards top of PCB)<br />
<br />
'''Inductor'''<br />
*150uH (L1, no polarity)<br />
<br />
'''Crystal (observe polarity/pin 1 mark)'''<br />
*32.768Khz RTC crystal (Q1, dot towards bottom of PCB, chisel-point towards top)<br />
<br />
'''Switch'''<br />
*5mm tactile switch, NOT reflow solderable. <br />
**Place and solder by hand AFTER reflow. (Next to JP2)<br />
<br><br />
'''3.''' Finish placing all parts and straighten as needed. Reflow solder using hotplate or oven, using an appropriate process.<br />
<br><br />
'''4.''' When PCB is cool, inspect the SMT parts under magnification and hand-solder dry joints or remove excess solder from shorted pins as needed. <br />
<br><br />
'''5.''' Begin soldering the 3.5mm pin headers. For the relay and analog/alarm inputs (16 and 24 pin headers,) you will need to trim the right edge of each pin header with a sharp pair of cutters to make them fit end-to-end. Use the plugs to hold and align them while soldering. Tack down 1 pin on each and make sure they are fully seated before soldering the rest.<br />
<br><br />
'''6.''' Solder in the MOV (R6). It has no polarity. Put the fuse into the fuse holder clips (F1) and solder it from top and bottom. <br />
<br><br />
'''7.''' Solder in the battery holder, observing the polarity marks and part outline on the PCB silkscreen. <br />
<br><br />
'''8.''' Install all 8 relays. Use tape to hold them in position, and tack down 1 pin each to make sure they're seated all the way before soldering.<br />
<br><br />
'''9.''' Install the 5mm power terminal (X35). <br />
<br><br />
'''10.''' Install the Arduino pin headers. Use an Ethernet or other shield to aid alignment from the top if desired.<br />
<br><br />
'''11.''' Inspect all joints and correct any problems. Clean the PCB with alcohol or flux remover and a toothbrush. Get rid of flux and any solder balls. All components are sealed and will not be damaged by aggressive cleaning. Do not use an ultrasonic cleaner, as this may damage components. Dry the PCB and prepare for testing. Install the Lithium battery, (+) side up.<br />
<br />
====Testing and burn-in Instructions====<br />
When you've completed assembly or have installed a new board, use the following procedure for initial testing.<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
[[Open Access Mega Testing and burn-in]]</div>Arclighthttps://www.accxproducts.com/wiki/index.php?title=Miscellaneous_ProjectsMiscellaneous Projects2013-01-05T17:59:18Z<p>Arclight: /* Downloads */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Miscellaneous Projects==<br />
<br />
<br />
These are smaller projects that we have built for internal use and have chosen to open-source.<br />
----<br />
<br />
===12V Lighting Controller===<br />
[[File:12V_lighting_controller.png|250px]]<br />
<BR><br />
'''Description:'''<br />
A 4-channel controller for anything that needs +12V switched at up to <br />
3A per channel. Uses the "RBBB" arduino design for control, and an <br />
LMD18400 4-channel high-side automotive switch from TI. All 4 channels <br />
are PWM and the there are 2 interrupt and 2 analog/digital inputs with <br />
protection circuitry. Use this for "common cathode" LED strips or other<br />
loads where +12V needs to be switched on the high side. <br />
<br />
Two of the inputs are interrupt-driven and 2 have analog capability, so <br />
this could be used as a 1-door sub-controller for home automation using<br />
a port of the "Open Access Control" or as a converter/interface to another<br />
system.<br />
<br />
Thanks to Modern Device (http://moderndevice.com/) for the original design <br />
and "WestFW" from Instructables for the Eagle Port:<br />
http://tinyurl.com/dfj4qc<br />
<br />
===Downloads===<br />
<br />
[[File:12v_light_control_v100.zip ]]<br />
<br />
*Includes Eagle CAD Schematic and Board Files, BOM, instructions.<br />
*Bill of Materials included as attributes in drawing<br />
*PCB also available from [https://www.batchpcb.com/pcbs/103377]<br />
<br />
[[File:12v_lighting_control_arduino_code.zip ]]<br />
* Arduino 1.x program for vehicle/mood lighting with timeout, other logic.</div>Arclight